专利摘要:
The subject of the present invention is a composition for dyeing keratin fibers, comprising: at least one fatty substance; at least one oxyethylenated (OE) nonionic surfactant comprising a number of EO units ranging from 1 to 9 and at least one non-surfactant; ionic oxyethylenic (EO) composition comprising at least 10 EO units, the weight ratio of the amount of oxyethylenated nonionic surfactant (s) comprising at least 10 EO units relative to the amount of nonionic surfactant (s) (s) ) oxyethylenated (s) comprising a number of EO units ranging from 1 to 9, being greater than or equal to 1 and at least one oxidation dye. the total amount of fat in the composition being greater than or equal to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. The subject of the invention is also a process for dyeing keratin fibers using this composition, as well as a kit.
公开号:FR3015274A1
申请号:FR1363003
申请日:2013-12-19
公开日:2015-06-26
发明作者:Estelle Millet;Geraldine Fack
申请人:LOreal SA;
IPC主号:
专利说明:

[0001] The present invention relates to a dyeing composition for human keratinous fibers comprising a high content of fatty substances, a mixture of particular oxyethylenated nonionic surfactants and a dyestuff. oxidation. The invention also relates to a dyeing method using said composition, as well as multi-compartment devices.
[0002] Among the methods for staining human keratinous fibers, such as the hair, mention may be made of oxidation or permanent staining. More particularly, this mode of staining uses one or more oxidation dyes, usually one or more oxidation bases possibly associated with one or more couplers.
[0003] In general, oxidation bases are chosen from ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols as well as heterocyclic compounds. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, combined with oxidizing products, allow access to colored species.
[0004] Very often, the shades obtained with these oxidation bases are varied by combining them with one or more couplers, the latter being chosen in particular from aromatic meta-diamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds, such as indole compounds. The variety of molecules involved in the oxidation bases and couplers allows a rich palette of colors to be obtained. It is also possible to add to these compositions, direct dyes, which are colored and coloring molecules having an affinity for the fibers. The direct dyes generally employed are chosen from nitrobenzene, anthraquinone, nitropyridine, azo, methine, azomethine, xanthene, acridine, azine or triarylmethane direct dyes. The presence of such compounds makes it possible to further enrich the coloration obtained, in reflections or to increase the chromaticity of the coloration obtained. The oxidation dyeing processes therefore consist in using with these dyeing compositions a composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent, generally hydrogen peroxide, under alkaline pH conditions in the vast majority of cases. This oxidizing agent has, among other things, the function of revealing the coloration, by an oxidative condensation reaction of the oxidation dyes with one another.
[0005] The oxidation coloring, moreover, must satisfy a certain number of requirements. Thus, it must be harmless from the toxicological point of view, it must make it possible to obtain shades in the desired intensity and to have good resistance to external aggressions such as light, bad weather, washing, permanent ripples, sweating and friction. The dyes must also make it possible to cover the white hairs, and finally be the least selective possible, that is to say to make it possible to obtain the lowest possible color differences throughout a single keratinous fiber, which comprises in general, differently sensitized (ie damaged) areas from tip to root. The compositions obtained must, in addition, have good properties of mixing and application, and in particular good rheological properties not to flow, when they are applied, on the face, the scalp, or outside areas that the we propose to dye. Finally the colorations must respect as much as possible the integrity of the keratinous fibers and give said fibers the best possible cosmetic properties. Numerous attempts have been made in the field of hair dyeing to improve the dyeing properties, for example by means of adjuvants. However, the choice of these adjuvants is delicate insofar as they must improve the dyeing properties of the dye compositions without harming the other properties of these compositions. In particular, these adjuvants must not affect the stability of the compositions, the lightening properties of the keratin fibers with the application properties of the coloring and the cosmetic properties of the colored fibers. The object of the present invention is to obtain novel compositions for staining keratinous fibers which do not have the disadvantages of the prior art. More particularly, the object of the present invention is to obtain novel coloring compositions which are very effective in terms of coloring, in particular in terms of white hair coverage, power level or intensity of the coloration, selectivity , of homogeneity quality of the dyeing, and which are easy to mix and apply, which limits the olfactory problems to the application while altering the keratin fibers as little as possible.
[0006] These and other objects are achieved by the present invention which therefore relates to a dyeing composition for keratinous fibers, comprising: at least one fatty substance, at least one oxyethylenated (OE) nonionic surfactant comprising a number of EO from 1 to 9, at least one oxyethylenated (OE) nonionic surfactant comprising at least 10 OE units, the weight ratio of the amount of oxyethylenated nonionic surfactant (s) comprising at least 10 EO units on the amount of oxyethylenated nonionic surfactants) comprising a number of EO units ranging from 1 to 9, being greater than or equal to 1 and at least one oxidation dye, the total amount of fatty substances in the composition being greater than or equal to at 70% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
[0007] The subject of the invention is also a device with two compartments comprising: in one, a composition (A) comprising: at least one fatty substance, at least one oxyethylenated (OE) nonionic surfactant comprising a number of EO from 1 to 9, at least one oxyethylenated (OE) nonionic surfactant comprising at least 10 OE units, the weight ratio of the amount of oxyethylenated nonionic surfactant (s) comprising at least 10 EO units on the the amount of oxyethylenated nonionic surfactant (s) comprising a number of EO units ranging from 1 to 9, being greater than or equal to 1 and at least one oxidation dye, the total amount of fatty substance in the composition (A) being greater than or equal to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition and in the other, a composition (B) comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide. By "chemical oxidizing agent" according to the invention is meant an oxidizing agent other than oxygen in the air.
[0008] It also relates to a method for staining human keratinous fibers comprising applying to said fibers a mixture resulting from: a composition (A) comprising: at least one fatty substance, at least one (i) an oxyethylenated nonionic surfactant ( 0E) comprising a number of EO units ranging from 1 to 9, at least (ii) an oxyethylenated (OE) nonionic surfactant comprising at least 10 OE units, the weight ratio of the amount of nonionic surfactant (s) oxyethylenated (s) comprising at least 10 EO units on the amount of oxyethylenated nonionic surfactants) comprising a number of EO units ranging from 1 to 9, being greater than or equal to 1 and at least one oxidation dye, the total amount of fat in the composition being greater than or equal to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition and - a composition (B) comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably peroxide of hydrogen.
[0009] Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of a domain of values are included in this field.
[0010] The expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more"; The human keratinous fibers treated by the process according to the invention are preferably the hair. Staining may be accompanied by simultaneous lightening of the keratinous fibers. Fatty substance As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances, the total amount of fatty substances, preferably of liquid fatty substances, representing at least 70% by weight, preferably at least 75% by weight, at least 80% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. Fatty matter means an organic compound which is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (lower solubility). at 5% and preferably at 1%, even more preferentially at 0.1%). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, such as for example chloroform, ethanol, benzene, petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane. By "oil" is meant a "fat" which is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C), and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 1,013.105 Pa). The term "non-silicone oil" means an oil containing no silicon atom (Si) and a "silicone oil" an oil containing at least one silicon atom. More particularly, the fatty substances are chosen from 06-016 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons having more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglycerides of plant or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, and alcohols. fatty acids, non-salified fatty acids, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters different from triglycerides, non-silicone waxes, different from solid fatty alcohols and solid synthetic esters, silicones, and mixtures thereof. It is recalled that for the purposes of the invention, the alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or otherwise. The linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, of more than 16 carbon atoms, are preferably chosen from paraffin or petrolatum oils, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof. relates to lower alkanes C6-016, the latter are linear, branched, possibly cyclic.
[0011] By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane and isododecane, and mixtures thereof. As hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, mention may be made of perhydrosqualene.
[0012] Triglycerides of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for example triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or even more particularly from those present in vegetable oils such as for example, sunflower, corn, soya, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado jojoba oil, shea butter oil or synthetic triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, and their mixtures.
[0013] The fluorinated oils may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC® PC1" and "FLUTEC® PC3" by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050®" and "PF 5060®" by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "Foralkyl®" by the company Atochem; nonafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by the company 3M. The fatty alcohols that are suitable for carrying out the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched saturated or unsaturated alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. There may be mentioned, for example, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol and linolenic alcohol. ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol and mixtures thereof.
[0014] The fatty acids that can be used in the context of the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 30 carbon atoms. They are advantageously chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid. These fatty acids are the composition not salified by organic or mineral bases to not give birth to soaps.
[0015] Regarding fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohols, different from the previously mentioned triglycerides and vegetable waxes; mention may be made especially of saturated or unsaturated, linear C 1 -C 26 or branched C 3 -C 26 aliphatic or monohydric aliphatic esters and saturated or unsaturated, linear or C 1 -C 26 aliphatic or monohydric aliphatic or monohydric alcohols; the total carbon of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more preferably greater than or equal to 10. Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isoketyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C12-C15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso) stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl ricinoleate acetyl; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate; , styryl, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate and mixtures thereof. Still within the scope of this variant, it is also possible to use esters of C 4 -C 22 di or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols and esters of mono di or tricarboxylic acids and of di, tri, alcohols. tetra or pentahydroxy in 02-026.
[0016] These include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; and polyethylene glycol distearates and mixtures thereof. Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, myristates of alkyls such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate and isononyl isononanate, cetyl octanoate and mixtures thereof.
[0017] The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and diesters of C 6 -C 30, preferably C 12 -C 22, fatty acid sugars. It is recalled that "sugar" is understood to mean oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without an aldehyde or ketone function, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides. Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives. especially alkyls, such as methyl derivatives such as methylglucose.
[0018] The esters of sugars and of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated C 6 -C 30, preferably C 12 -C 22, fatty acids. or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or otherwise.
[0019] The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof. These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as in particular the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleostearate and palmito stearate esters. More particularly, mono- and di-esters are used, and in particular mono- or dioleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, sucrose, glucose or methylglucose. By way of example, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Glucate® DO 30 by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate. Mention may also be made, by way of examples, of esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acid sugar: the products sold under the names F160, F140, F110, F90, F70 and SL40 by the company Crodesta, respectively denoting sucrose palmito stearates of 73% monoester and 27% di- and tri-ester, 61% monoester and 39% di-, tri- and tetraester, 52% monoester and 48% di-, tri- and tetraester, 45% monoester and 55% di-, tri- and tetraester, 39% monoester and 61% di-, tri-, and tetraester, and sucrose mono-laurate; the products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters, for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% di-triester-polyester; the sucrose mono-dipalmito-stearate marketed by Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft® PSE. The wax or the non-silicone waxes different from the solid fatty alcohols and the solid synthetic esters, are chosen in particular from Carnauba wax, Candelila wax, and Alfa wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, and waxes. vegetable oils such as olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute waxes of flowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant flower sold by the company BERTIN (France), animal waxes such as waxes bees, or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina); other waxes or waxy raw materials that can be used according to the invention are, in particular, marine waxes, such as the one sold by SOPHIM under the reference M82, and polyethylene or polyolefin waxes in general.
[0020] The silicones that can be used in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention are volatile or cyclic, linear or branched, volatile or non-volatile silicones, modified or not with organic groups, having a viscosity of 5 × 10 -6 to 2.5 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. C and preferably 1.10-5 to 1m2 / s. The silicones that can be used in accordance with the invention can be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums. Preferably, the silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from poly (oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy groups.
[0021] Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press. They can be volatile or nonvolatile. When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 ° C. and 260 ° C., and even more particularly from: (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. It is, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE ® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as their mixtures.
[0022] Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as the VOLATILE® SILICONE FZ 3109 marketed by UNION CARBIDE, of the formula: ## STR5 ## Si-O-Cl, Hi, with D ": Cyclic polydialkylsiloxane mixtures with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50), and the mixture can also be mentioned. octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1 '- (hexa-2,2,2', 2 ', 3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 carbon atoms; silicon and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. It is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name "SH 200" by Toray Silicone. class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics". Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, polydialkylsiloxane gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with the above organofunctional groups and mixtures thereof are preferably used. These silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which may be mentioned mainly polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25 ° C. according to the ASTM 445 Appendix C standard. Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, without limitation, of the following commercial products: SILBIONE® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the MIRASIL oils ® marketed by RHODIA such as, for example 70 047 V 500 000 oil; the oils of the MIRASIL® series marketed by RHODIA; the oils of the 200 series of Dow Corning, such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 mm 2 / s; - VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and some oils from SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC. Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name of dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company RHODIA. In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names "ABIL WAX® 9800 and 9801" by GOLDSCHMIDT, which are polydialkyl (C1-020) siloxanes. The silicone gums that can be used in accordance with the invention are in particular polydialkylsiloxanes, preferably polydimethylsiloxanes having high average molecular weights of between 200,000 and 1,000,000 used alone or in a mixture in a solvent. This solvent may be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane or their mixtures. More particularly useful products according to the invention are mixtures such as: - mixtures formed from a hydroxyl end-of-the-chain polydimethylsiloxane, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA) such that the product Q2 1401 marketed by the company Dow Corning; mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane gum and a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric, this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number average molecular weight of 500,000 solubilized in oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; mixtures of two PDMSs of different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company General Electric. The product SF 1236 is the mixture of an SE 30 gum defined above having a viscosity of 20 m 2 / s and an SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s. This product preferably comprises 15% of SE gum and 85% of an SF 96 oil. The organopolysiloxane resins that can be used in accordance with the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the units: R 2 SiO 2/2, R 3 SiO 1/2, RSiO 3 Wherein R represents an alkyl having 1 to 16 carbon atoms. Among these products, those that are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a C1-C4 lower alkyl group, more particularly methyl. Among these resins may be mentioned the product sold under the name "Dow Corning 593" or those sold under the names "Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267" by the company General Electric and which are silicones of dimethyl / trimethyl siloxane structure. Mention may also be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company Shin-Etsu. The organomodified silicones that may be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group. In addition to the silicones described above, the organomodified silicones may be polydiaryl siloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned previously. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1 × 10 -5 to 5 × 10 -2 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes include by way of example the products sold under the following names: SILBIONE® oils of the 70 641 series from RHODIA; 25. RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 RHODIA series of oils; . DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING; . silicones of the PK series from BAYER, such as the product PK20; . silicones of the PN and PH series from BAYER, such as the PN 1000 and PH1000 products; . certain oils of the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 30 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265. Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising: polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally comprising C 6 alkyl groups Such as the products called dimethicone copolyol marketed by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils SILWET® L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 of the company UNION CARBIDE and the alkyl (C12) - meticone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200; substituted or unsubstituted amine groups such as the products sold under the name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company Genesee or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning. The substituted amino groups are, in particular, C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups; alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name Silicone Copolymer F-755 by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT. The fatty substance (s) do not comprise an oxyalkylenated C2-C3 unit. Preferably they do not contain a glycerol unit. More particularly, the fatty substances are different from the fatty acids. More particularly, the fatty substances are chosen from liquid or pasty compounds at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. Preferably, the fatty substance is a liquid compound at a temperature of 25 ° C and at atmospheric pressure, or oil. According to a preferred variant, the fatty substances are not silicones. The fatty substances are preferably chosen from C 6 -C 16 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglycerides of vegetable or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, esters, and the like. of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol, or mixtures thereof. Preferably, the fatty substance is chosen from liquid petroleum jelly or paraffin, polydecenes, esters which are liquid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure of fatty acid and / or of fatty alcohol, fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature. and at atmospheric pressure or their mixtures. The composition according to the invention comprises at least 70% of fatty substances and preferably at least 70% of oils. The composition according to the invention more particularly has a fatty substance content ranging from 70 to 90% by weight, even more preferably from 75 to 85% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, and more particularly from an oil content. ranging from 70 to 90% by weight, still more preferably from 75 to 85% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. Oxyethylenated surfactants The composition according to the invention comprises at least one oxyethylenated (OE) nonionic surfactant comprising a number of EO units ranging from 1 to 9 and at least one oxyethylenated (OE) nonionic surfactant comprising at least 10 OE units. The weight ratio in the composition of the invention of the amount of oxyethylenated nonionic surfactant (s) comprising at least 10 EO units relative to the amount of oxyethylenated nonionic surfactant (s) comprising a number of EO units ranging from 1 to 9, is greater than or equal to 1, preferably greater than or equal to 2. This weight ratio can range, for example, from 1 to 2, more preferably from 3 to 10.
[0023] Moved on page 16 The oxyethylenated nonionic surfactants comprising a number of EO units ranging from 1 to 9 and the oxyethylenated (OE) nonionic surfactants comprising at least 10 EO units can be chosen from the following categories: C8-C24 alkyls oxyethylenated phenols, - linear or branched, oxyethylenated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acids, preferably saturated or unsaturated C12-C22 fatty acids, - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated C 8 -C 30 amides, - saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C 8 -C 30 acid esters, and polyethylene glycols, - linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 8 -C 30 acid esters, and polyoxyethylenated sorbitol, - vegetable oils oxyethylenated, saturated or unsaturated, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the oxyethylenated nonionic surfactant comprising at least 10 EO units and the oxyethylenated nonionic surfactant comprising from 1 to 9 EO units are chosen from oxyethylenated derivatives of C 8 -C 30, preferably C 12 -C 22, saturated fatty alcohols. or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably linear such as cetyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, oleocetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, alcohol isostearyl and mixtures thereof. Preferably, oxyethylenated nonionic surfactant comprising from 1 to 9 OE units is used, oxyethylenated nonionic surfactants comprising from 2 to 8, preferably from 3 to 6, OE units, for example the oxide adducts. ethylene and lauryl alcohol such as lauric alcohol 2 OE (CTFA name laureth-2), adducts of ethylene oxide and decyl alcohol such as decyl alcohol 3 OE (CTFA name deceth 3), decyl 5-decyl alcohol (CTFA name deceth-5), ethylene oxide and oleocetyl alcohol adducts such as oleocetyl alcohol (CTFA name oleoceteth-5) and their mixtures. These include the following commercial products: Mergital LM2 (COGNIS) [lauric alcohol 20E]; Empilan KA 2.5 / 90FL (ALBRIGHT & WILSON) and Emulgin BL309 (COGNIS) [10E decyl alcohol]; Empilan KA 5/90 FL (ALBRIGHT & WILSON) and Emulgin BL589 (COGNIS) [10E decyl alcohol]; Emulgin 05 (COGNIS) [Oleoketyl alcohol 50E]. The content of oxyethylenated nonionic surfactant (s) comprising from 1 to 9 EO units in the composition (A) according to the invention can range from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0 to 1 to 5% by weight and better still from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A). The oxyethylenated nonionic surfactants comprising at least 10 EO units used in the invention may in particular have a number of oxyethylene groups ranging from 10 to 50, preferably from 15 to 30.
[0024] According to one embodiment, the oxyethylenated nonionic surfactants comprising at least 10 EO units used in the invention comprise at least 15 oxyethylene groups. As oxyethylenated nonionic surfactant comprising at least 10 OE units, mention may be made, for example, of adducts of ethylene oxide with lauryl alcohol, in particular those comprising from 10 to 50 oxyethylene groups and more particularly those containing from 10 to 50 carbon atoms. 30 oxyethylene groups (Laureth-10 to Laureth-30 in CTFA names); adducts of ethylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, in particular those containing from 10 to 50 oxyethylene groups (Beheneth-9 to Beheneth-50 in CTFA names); adducts of ethylene oxide with cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), in particular those containing from 10 to 30 oxyethylene groups (ceteareth-10 to ceteareth-30 in CTFA names) ; adducts of ethylene oxide with cetyl alcohol, especially those containing from 10 to 30 oxyethylene groups (Ceteth-10 to Ceteth-30 in CTFA names); adducts of ethylene oxide with stearyl alcohol, especially those containing from 10 to 30 oxyethylene groups (Steareth-10 to Steareth-30 in CTFA names); adducts of ethylene oxide with isostearyl alcohol, especially those containing from 10 to 50 oxyethylene groups (lsosteareth-10 to lsosteareth-50 in CTFA names); adducts of ethylene oxide with oleic alcohol, especially those containing from 10 to 30 oxyethylene groups (Oleth-10 to Oleth-30 in CTFA names) and mixtures thereof.
[0025] According to one embodiment, use is made in particular of adducts of ethylene oxide with oleic alcohol, in particular those containing from 10 to 20 oxyethylene groups, for example the products sold under the references Brij 96V (Oleth- 10) and Brij 98V (Oleth-20) by the company Croda.
[0026] The content of oxyethylenated nonionic surfactants comprising at least 10 oxyalkylene groups in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight and better still from 1% to 10% by weight. by weight and more preferably from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0027] According to a preferred embodiment, the total amount of oxyethylenated nonionic surfactants in the composition is preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. It can range from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 7% by weight.
[0028] Basifying agents The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises one or more alkalinizing agents. The basifying agent may be inorganic or organic or hybrid. The inorganic alkalinizing agent (s) is (are) preferably chosen from ammonia, alkali carbonates or bicarbonates, sodium or potassium hydroxides or their mixtures.
[0029] The organic alkalinizing agent (s) is (are) preferably chosen from organic amines whose pKb at 25 ° C. is less than 12, and preferably less than 10, still more advantageously less than 6. It should be noted that is the pKb corresponding to the highest basicity function.
[0030] The organic alkalinizing agent (s) are, for example, chosen from alkanolamines, ethoxylated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, amino acids and compounds of the following formula (A1): ## STR1 ## in which W is a C1-C6 alkylene radical optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group or a C1-C6 alkyl radical; Rx, Ry, Rz and Rt, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl or C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl, C1-C6 aminoalkyl radical. Examples of such amines include 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,3-diaminopropanol, spermine and spermidine. By alkanolamine is meant an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine functional groups, and one or more linear or branched C1-C8 alkyl groups carrying one or more hydroxyl radicals.
[0031] Alkanolamines, such as mono-, di- or trialkanolamines comprising one to three identical or different C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals, are particularly suitable for carrying out the invention. Among compounds of this type, mention may be made of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N-dimethylaminoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino -2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylaminomethane.
[0032] More particularly, the amino acids that can be used are of natural or synthetic origin, in their L, D, or racemic form, and comprise at least one acid function chosen more particularly from the carboxylic, sulphonic, phosphonic or phosphoric acid functions. Amino acids can be in neutral or ionic form.
[0033] As amino acids that may be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine and cysteine. , glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine. Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function optionally included in a ring or in a ureido function.
[0034] Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from those corresponding to the following formula (A2): embedded image where R denotes a group chosen from: - (CH 2) 31 11-12; The compounds corresponding to the formula (A2) are histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine, and the like. , citrulline.
[0035] The organic amine may also be chosen from heterocyclic organic amines. In addition to the histidine already mentioned in the amino acids, mention may in particular be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole. .
[0036] The organic amine may also be selected from amino acid dipeptides. As amino acid dipeptides that may be used in the present invention, carnosine, anserin and whale may be mentioned in particular. The organic amine may also be chosen from compounds containing a guanidine function. As amino amines of this type which can be used in the present invention, mention may in addition be made of arginine already mentioned as amino acid, creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1 diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2- gamino (imino) methyl] amino) ethane-1-sulfonic acid .
[0037] Preferably, the organic amine present in the coloring and / or lightening agent of the invention is an alkanolamine. Even more preferentially, the organic amine is monoethanolamine.
[0038] As hybrid compounds, mention may be made of the salts of the amines mentioned above with acids such as carbonic acid and hydrochloric acid. In particular, it is possible to use guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride. Advantageously, the content of basifying agent (s) varies from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight. 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition or compositions containing them and preferably relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention The composition of the invention preferably contains one or more alkanolamines, and / or one or more several basic amino acids. Preferably the composition comprises monoethanolamine. In a first variant of the invention, if the composition comprises ammonia or one of its salts and other alkalinizing agents, then the amount of alkalinizing agent (s) other than ammonia is greater than that of ammonia (expressed in NH3). In a second variant of the invention, the composition does not comprise ammonia.
[0039] Dyes The composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation dyes.
[0040] The oxidation dyes are generally chosen from one or more oxidation bases optionally combined with one or more couplers.
[0041] By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis-phenylalkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and their addition salts. Among the para-phenylenediamines, there may be mentioned, for example, para-phenylenediamine, paratoluylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl paraphenylenediamine, N, Ndipropyl paraphenylenediamine, 4-amino N, N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N, N-bis- ( 3-hydroxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, 4-N, N-bis - ((3-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N, N-bis - ((3-hydroxyethyl) amino 2-chloroaniline, 213 hydroxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N - ((3-hydroxypropyl) para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N- ( ethyl, 3-hydroxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, N- (13, dihydroxypropyl) pa triphenylenediamine, N- (4'-aminophenyl) paraphenylenediamine, N-phenyl paraphenylenediamine, 2 (3-hydroxyethyloxy) paraphenylenediamine, 2 (3-acetylaminoethyloxy) paraphenylenediamine, N - ((3-methoxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, 4 aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl paraphenylenediamine, hydroxyethylamino 5-amino toluene, 3-hydroxy-1- (4'-aminophenyl) pyrrolidine and their addition salts with an acid. Of the paraphenylenediamines mentioned above, paraphenylenediamine, paratoluylenediamine, 2-isopropyl paraphenylenediamine, 213-hydroxyethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2 (3-hydroxyethyloxy) paraphenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, N, N-bis- ((3-hydroxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2 (3-acetylaminoethyloxy) para-phenylenediamine, and their acid addition salts are particularly Among the bis-phenylalkylenediamines, N, N'-bis ((3-hydroxyethyl) N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino is exemplified by way of example. propanol, N, N'-bis- (phydroxyethyl) N, N'-bis- (4'-aminophenyl) ethylenediamine, N, N'-bis- (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis - (p-hydroxyethyl) N, N'-bis- (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (4-methylaminophenyl) tetramethyl hylenediamine, N, N'-bis (ethyl) N, N'-bis- (4'-amino, 3'-methylphenyl) ethylenediamine, 1,8-bis (2,5-diamino phenoxy) - 3,6-dioxaoctane, and their addition salts.
[0042] Among para-aminophenols, para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluoro phenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4- amino 3-hydroxymethyl phenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2 - ( 3-hydroxyethylaminomethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2-fluoro phenol, and their addition salts with an acid Among the ortho-aminophenols, there may be mentioned, by way of example, 2-amino phenol, 2- amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol, 5-acetamido-2-amino phenol, and their addition salts.
[0043] Among the heterocyclic bases that may be mentioned by way of example are pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives. Among the pyridine derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds described for example in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, such as 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2- (4-methoxyphenyl) amino 3-amino pyridine, 3,4-diamino pyridine, and their addition salts. Other pyridinic oxidation bases useful in the present invention are the 3-amino pyrazolo [1,5-4-pyridines oxidation bases or their addition salts described for example in the patent application FR 2801308. A by way of example, mention may be made of pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; 2-acetylamino pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; 2-morpholin-4-yl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; 3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-2-carboxylic acid; 2-methoxy-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine-3-ylamine; (3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-7-yl) -methanol; 2- (3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-5-yl) ethanol; 2- (3-Amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-7-yl) -ethanol; (3-Amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-2-yl) -methanol; 3,6-diaminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine; 3,4-diamino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine; pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine-3,7-diamine; ; 2- (3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-2-yloxy) ethanol; 7-morpholin-4-yl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine-3,5-diamine; 5-morpholin-4-yl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; 2 - [(3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-5-yl) - (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] ethanol; 2 - [(3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-7-yl) - (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] ethanol; 3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-5-ol; 3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-4-ol; 3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-6-ol; 3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-7-ol; as well as their addition salts. 2- (3-Amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-2-yloxy) ethanol salts are particularly preferred. Among the pyrimidine derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds described, for example, in DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96/15765 such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy 4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, , 4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts and tautomeric forms, when tautomeric equilibrium exists.
[0044] Among the pyrazole derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds described in DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FRA-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, such as 4,5-diamino 1-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino 1 - ((3-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 3,4-diamino pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (4'-chlorobenzyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diamino 1 , 3-dimethyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazino-pyrazole, benzyl 4,5-diamino-3-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-tert-butyl-3-methyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- ((3-hydroxyethyl) 3-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diamino 1-ethyl 3-hydroxymethyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-meth 1-isopropyl pyrazole, 4-amino 5- (2'-aminoethyl) amino 1,3-dimethyl pyrazole, 3,4,5-triamino pyrazole, 1-methyl 3,4,5-triamino pyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylamino pyrazole, 3,5-diamino 4 - ((3-hydroxyethyl) amino-1-methyl pyrazole, and their addition salts. 4-5-Diamino-1 - ((3-methoxyethyl) pyrazole may also be used, preferably a 4,5-diaminopyrazole and even more preferably 4,5-diamino-1 - ((3-hydroxyethyl) and pyrazole derivatives, mention may also be made of diamino N, Ndihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in Application FR-A-2,886,136, such as the following compounds and their salts; addition: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2-aminomo-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2- amino-3- (pyrrolidin-1-yl) -6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1, 2-Dihydro-pyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydro-pyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-di- (2-hydroxyethyl) -1,2-dihydro-pyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one , 2-amino-3 1-methylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-1H, 6H-pyridazino [ 1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 4-aminodo-1,2-diethyl-5- (pyrrolidin-1-yl) -1,2-dihydro-pyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-1 5- (3-dimethylamino-pyrrolidin-1-yl) -1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydro-pyrazol-3-one, 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one. It will be preferred to use 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one and / or a salt thereof.
[0045] As heterocyclic bases, 4,5-diamino-1 - ((3-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole and / or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2] will preferably be used. -a] pyrazol-1-one and / or 2- (3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-2-yloxy) ethanol and / or a salt thereof.
[0046] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more couplers advantageously chosen from those conventionally used for dyeing keratinous fibers. Among these couplers, there may be mentioned meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalenic couplers, heterocyclic couplers and their addition salts. By way of example, mention may be made of 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene and 2,4-diamino-1- hydroxyethyloxy) benzene, 2-amino-4- (1-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diamino benzene, 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 3-ureido aniline, 3-ureido-dimethylamino benzene, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N - ((3-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methyl-phenol, 3-amino-phenol, sesamol, 11-hydroxyethylamino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, α-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy N-methylindole, 2-amino 3-hydroxy-pyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-N- (11-hydroxyethyl) amino-3,4-methylene dioxybenzene, 2,6-bis- (11-hydroxyethylamino) toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1-H-3-methylpyrazole-5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazole-5-one, , 6- dimethyl pyrazolo [1,5-b] -1,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl [3,2-c] -1,2,4-triazole, 6-methyl pyrazolo [1,5-dimethyl] a] -benzimidazole, their addition salts with an acid, and mixtures thereof. In general, the addition salts of the oxidation bases and couplers that can be used in the context of the invention are chosen especially from the addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulphates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates. The oxidation base (s) each advantageously represent from 0.0001 to 10% by weight, and preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention. The content of the coupler (s), if they are (are) present, are each advantageously from 0.0001 to 10% by weight, and preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight relative to the weight. total composition of the invention Preferably the composition of the invention comprises at least one oxidation base and at least one coupler. The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise, in addition to the oxidation dye (s) and preferably in addition to the oxidation dye (s), one or more direct dyes, synthetic or natural, chosen from ionic or nonionic species. preferably cationic or nonionic. As examples of suitable direct dyes, mention may be made of azo direct dyes; methinic; carbonyls; azinic; nitro (hetero) aryl; tri- (hetero) aryl methanes; porphyrins; phthalocyanines and natural direct dyes, alone or in mixtures. Among the natural direct dyes that may be used according to the invention, lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurine, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogalline, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin , curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, orceins. It is also possible to use the extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes, and in particular poultices or extracts made from henna. When present, the direct dye (s) represent more particularly from 0.0001 to 10% by weight, and preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention. invention may comprise water. According to one embodiment, the composition has a water content less than or equal to 15% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight, and even more particularly less than 6% by weight, by weight relative to the weight of said composition.
[0047] The composition of the invention may also comprise one or more water-soluble organic solvents. By water-soluble is meant an organic solvent having a solubility in water greater than or equal to 5% by weight at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As organic solvent, there may be mentioned for example linear or branched, preferably saturated monoalcohols or diols, comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, hexylene glycol (2 methyl 2,4-pentanediol), neopentyl glycol and 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol; aromatic alcohols such as phenylethyl alcohol; glycerol; polyols or polyol ethers such as, for example, ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol; and the alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, especially C1-C4, for example diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether, alone or as a mixture. The water-soluble organic solvents, when they are present, generally represent between 1 and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the dyeing composition, and preferably between 5 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of the composition. invention. According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is anhydrous. It should be noted that the water may also be in the form of bound water, such as the water of crystallization of the salts or traces of water absorbed by the raw materials used in the production of the compositions according to the invention. The invention also relates to a device with two compartments comprising: in one, a composition (A) comprising: - at least one fatty substance, - at least (i) an oxyethylenated (OE) nonionic surfactant comprising a number with EO units ranging from 1 to 9, at least (ii) an oxyethylenated (OE) nonionic surfactant comprising at least 10 OE units, the weight ratio of the amount of oxyethylenated nonionic surfactant (s) comprising at least 10 EO units on the amount of oxyethylenated nonionic surfactant (s) comprising a number of EO units ranging from 1 to 9, being greater than or equal to 1 and at least one oxidation dye, the total amount of fatty substance in the composition (A) being greater than or equal to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition and in the other, a composition (B) comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide. The oxidizing composition (B) comprises at least one chemical oxidizing agent. More particularly, the chemical oxidizing agent (s) is (are) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts, for example alkali metal persulfates, perborates and percarbonates, or alkaline earth metals, as well as peracids and their precursors. Preferably, the oxidizing agent is not chosen from peroxygenated salts.
[0048] Advantageously, the chemical oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide. The content of chemical oxidizing agent (s) represents more particularly from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition containing them.
[0049] The oxidizing composition also preferably comprises one or more acidifying agents. Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, for example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid citric acid, lactic acid, sulphonic acids.
[0050] Usually, the pH of the oxidizing composition, when it is aqueous, is less than 7. Preferably, the oxidizing composition comprises hydrogen peroxide as oxidizing agent, in aqueous solution, the concentration of which varies, more particularly , from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 20% by weight, and even more preferably between 1 and 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition. The oxidizing composition may also comprise an oxyethylenated surfactant chosen from oxyethylenated (OE) nonionic surfactants comprising a number of EO units ranging from 1 to 9 and oxyethylenated (OE) nonionic surfactants comprising at least 10 EO units described above, in the contents indicated.
[0051] The composition (B) may also comprise at least one fatty substance chosen from those previously described. According to one embodiment, the composition (B) comprises at least one fatty substance, preferably an oil, preferably chosen from liquid petroleum jelly, paraffin, polydecenes, esters that are liquid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure. fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol, liquid fatty alcohols at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure, or mixtures thereof, in a content preferably greater than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition. According to one embodiment, the oxidizing composition comprises at least one fatty substance in a total fat content and preferably in oils of at least 30% by weight, preferably at least 35% by weight, better still at least 40% by weight. by weight, more preferably at least 45% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition. Preferably the oxidizing composition contains water. Advantageously, the water concentration may range from 10 to 70% by weight, preferably from 20 to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition. It may also comprise one or more water-soluble organic solvents such as those mentioned above. .
[0052] According to a preferred variant, the oxidizing composition of the invention contains one or more C 8 -C 30 fatty acid amides, optionally oxyalkylenated. These amides may be present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10%, more preferably from 0.5 to 8%, better still from 1 to 5% of the total weight of the composition.
[0053] According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention and / or the oxidizing composition according to the invention, preferably the oxidizing composition according to the invention comprises at least one cationic polymer. It is recalled that within the meaning of the present invention, the expression "cationic polymer" denotes any polymer containing cationic groups and / or ionizable groups in cationic groups. Preferably, the cationic polymer present in the composition according to the invention is a linear, random, grafted or block homopolymer or copolymer, and comprises at least one cationic and / or ionizable group in cationic group chosen from primary amine groups. , secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary part of the main chain of the polymer or be carried by a side substituent directly connected thereto.
[0054] Preferably, the cationic charge density of the cationic polymers according to the invention is greater than 1 meq / g, better still greater than or equal to 4 meq / g. This charge density is determined by the Kjeldahl method. It can also be calculated from the chemical nature of the polymer.
[0055] The cationic polymers used generally have a number-average molecular weight of between about 500 and 5 × 10 6, and preferably between 103 and 3 × 10 6. Among the cationic polymers, mention may be made more particularly of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and quaternary polyammonium type polymers.
[0056] These are known products and are described in particular in patents FR 2505348 or FR 2542997. Among the cationic polymers that can be used in the context of the invention, mention may be made of the following polymers, alone or as a mixture: (1) Homopolymers or copolymers derivatives of acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the following units of formulas (I), (II), (III) or (IV): R3 R3 R3 R3 -CH2 O = O (II) A , N + Ra R6 R, in which R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical; A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched C 1 -C 6, preferably C 2 -C 3, alkyl group or a C 1 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl group; R4, R5, R6, which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C18 alkyl group or a benzyl radical, and preferably a C1-C6 alkyl group; R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, represent hydrogen or a C1-C6 alkyl group, and preferably methyl or ethyl; X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulphate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide. The polymers of the family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetones acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyls (C1-C4). ), acrylic acids or -CH 2 (I) 0 = 0 to R 1 R 2 -CH 2 O = NH (III) A N + RR R 6, -CH 2 O = (IV) NH AN 1 R 2 methacrylic or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters. Thus, among these polymers of family (1), mention may be made of: copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulphate or with a dimethyl holognide, such as that sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules, the copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyl-trimethylammonium chloride described for example in EP 80976 and sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy, the copolymer of acrylamide and of methosulphate of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules, the vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers quaternized or otherwise, such as the products sold under the name "Gafquat" by the company ISP, for example "Gafquat 734" or "Gafquat 755" or the products referred to as "Copolymer 845, 958 and 937". These polymers are described in FR 2077143 and FR 2393573, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP, vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyl dimethylamine copolymers marketed in particular under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP, - vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylamino-propyl methacrylamide quaternized copolymers such as the product sold under the name "Gafquat HS 100" by the company ISP. crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C1-C4) trialkyl (C1-C4) ammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with chloride; of methyl, the homo or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. It is more particularly possible to use a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name "Salcare® SC 92" by the company Ciba. It is also possible to use a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride containing about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are marketed under the names "Salcare® SC 95" and "Salcare® SC 96" by the company Ciba. (2) Cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described especially in US 4131576, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium, methacrylmidopropyl trimethylammonium, dimethyl-diallylammonium.
[0057] The marketed products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the company National Starch. (3) The cationic guar gums described more particularly in US 3589578 and US 4031307 such as guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. For example, guar gums modified with a salt (for example chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium are used. Such products are sold in particular under the trade names of Jaguar C135, Jaguar C15, Jaguar C17 or Jaguar C162 by Meyhall. (4) Polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and straight or branched chain alkylene or hydroxyalkylene divalent radicals, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen or aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as oxidation and / or quaternization of these polymers. Such polymers are described in particular in FR 2162025 and FR 2280361. (5) The water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides may be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, or by an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halogenide, epilhalohydrin, diepoxide or bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 moles per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, quaternized. Such polymers are especially described in FR 2252840 and FR 2368508; The polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid-diacoylamino-hydroxyalkyldialoylene triamine polymers in which the alkyl radical is C1-C4 and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Such polymers are especially described in FR 1583363. Among these derivatives, there may be mentioned more particularly the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4 or F8" by the company Sandoz. (6) The polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated C 3 -C 8 aliphatic dicarboxylic acids. The molar ratio between the polyalkylene polylamine and the dicarboxylic acid being between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1; the polyaminoamide resulting therefrom being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide of between 0.5: 1 and 1.8: 1. Such polymers are described in particular US 3227615 and US 2961347. Polymers of this type are in particular marketed under the name "Hercosett 57", "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by the company Hercules. (7) cyclopolymers of alkyl diallyl amine or of dialkyl diallyl ammonium such as homopolymers or copolymers having as their main constituent of the chain of units of formula (V) or (VI): / (CH 2) k (CQ 2) ## STR5 ## in which formula (II): ## STR5 ## in which formula (## STR2 ## in which where k and t are 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; R 9 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; R 7 and R 8, independently of each other, denote an alkyl group; C1-C8, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group is C1-C5, an amidoalkyl group whose alkyl is C1-C4; R7 and R8 may further designate together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R7 and R8 independently of each other preferably denote a C1-C4 alkyl group; Y- is an organic anion o mineral such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate. These polymers are especially described in FR 2080759 and FR 2190406. The cyclopolymers preferably comprise at least one unit of formula (V). As regards the copolymers, they further comprise an acrylamide monomer.
[0058] Among the polymers defined above, mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride sold under the name "Merquat 100" by the company Nalco (and its counterparts of low weight average molecular weight) and the copolymers of sodium chloride. diallyldimethylammonium and acrylamide sold under the name "Merquat 550". (8) The quaternary diammonium polymer containing repeating units corresponding to the formula: ## STR5 ## wherein R10, R11, R12 and R13, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic, or arylaliphatic C1-C20 radicals or hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals whose alkyl radical is C1-C4, or R10, R11, R12 and R13, together or separately, together with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or R10, R11, R12 and R13 represent a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -00-O-R14 group; -D or -CO-NH-R14-D where R14 is alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group; Al and B1 represent linear or branched, C 2 -C 20 polymethylenic groups, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, bound to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen atoms, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; A1, R10 and R12 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring; furthermore, if Al denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 may also denote a group - (CH2) n, -, - CO-D-OC- (CH2) '- in which n is between 1 and 100 and preferably between 1 and 50, and D denotes: a) a glycol residue of formula: -O-Z-O-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the formulas following: - (CH2-C1-12-0) x-C1-12-CI-12-; - [CH 2 -CH (CH 3) -O] y -CH 2 -CH (CH 3) - where x and y denote an integer of 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing a degree of average polymerization; b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or the radical -CH 2 -CH 2 -S-S-CH 2 -CH 2 -; d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-. Preferably, X- is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number average molecular weight generally between 1000 and 100000.
[0059] Polymers of this type are described in particular in FR 2320330, FR 2270846, FR 2316271, FR 2336434, FR 2413907, US 2273780, US 2375853, US 2388614, US 2454547, US 3206462, US 2261002, US 2271378, US 3874870, US 4001432. , US 3929990, US 3966904, US 4005193, US 4025617, US 4025627, US 4025653, US 4026945 and US 4027020.
[0060] It is more particularly possible to use polymers which consist of repeating units corresponding to the following formula (VIII): R 10 R 12 --N - + (CH 2) n - N - (CH 2) p - (VIII) II - R 11 X R 13 X in which R10, R11, R12 and R13, which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical, n and p are integers varying from approximately 2 to approximately 20 and, X- is an anion derived from a mineral acid or organic. (9) Quaternary polyammonium polymers consisting of recurring units of formula (IX): CH 3 XX CH 3 N (CH 2) NH-CO D-NH (cH 2) p (CH 2) 2 O (CH 2) 2 CH 3 CH 3 in which p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to about 6, D can be zero or can represent a group - (CH2) r -CO- in which r denotes a number equal to 4 or 7, X- is an anion.
[0061] Such polymers can be prepared according to the processes described in US 4157388, US 4702906, US 4719282. They are described in particular in the patent application EP 122324. Among them, mention may be made, for example, of the products "Mirapol A 15", " Mirapol AD1 "," Mirapol AZ1 "and" Mirapol 175 "sold by Miranol. (10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole such as, for example, the products sold under the names Luviquat FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF. (11) Polyamines such as Polyquart H sold by Cognis, referred to as "polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine" in the CTFA dictionary.
[0062] Other cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.
[0063] Among all the cationic polymers which may be used in the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use, alone or as mixtures, the polymers of families (1), (7), (8) and (9). According to a more particular embodiment of the invention, it is preferred to use the polymers of families (7), (8) and (9).
[0064] According to an even more advantageous embodiment of the invention, the polymers of the families (7) and (8) are used alone or in mixtures, and even more preferably the polymers with recurring units of formulas ( N) and (U) following: CH 3 CH 3 N-- (CH 2) 3 -N + - (CH 2) 6 I-cl-CH 3 CH 3 (IX) (W) and in particular those whose molecular weight, determined by gel permeation chromatography, is between 9500 and 9900; CH 3 C2H5 [4 +/- (CH 2) 3 -N + - (Cl-12) 3 (U) Br I Br CH 3 C2H 5 and in particular those whose molecular weight, determined by gel permeation chromatography, is about 1200. preferably, the cationic polymer present in the composition according to the invention is chosen from the polymers of families (7) and (8). More preferably, the cationic polymer present in the composition according to the invention is chosen from the polymers of family (7), preferably the homopolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, the polymers of formulas (VIII) above, in particular the polymers of formula (U) or (V /), and mixtures thereof. The composition according to the invention and / or the oxidizing composition may advantageously comprise from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more particularly from 0.05 to 6% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight of materials. dry cationic polymer (s) relative to the weight of the composition or the container. The composition according to the invention and the oxidizing composition may also each contain various adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for dyeing hair, such as anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or their mixtures; antioxidants; penetrants; sequestering agents; perfumes ; dispersants; film-forming agents; preservatives; opacifying agents, so-called additional surfactants different from the oxyethylenated surfactants described above. The adjuvants above are generally present in an amount for each of them between 0.01 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of each composition.
[0065] The additional surfactants may especially be chosen from anionic, nonionic surfactants different from the oxyethylenated nonionic surfactants described above, cationic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.
[0066] Preferably, the surfactant or surfactants are chosen from nonionic surfactants or from anionic surfactants. The term "anionic surfactant" is understood to mean a surfactant comprising as ionic or ionizable groups only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from -CO2H, -O2O-, -SO3H, -SO3-, -SO3H, -SOO3-, -H2PO3, -HPO3-, -PO32-, -H2PO2, = HPO2, -HPO2 groups. -, = P02-, = POH, = PO-. As examples of anionic surfactants that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, alkyl amide sulphonates and alkyl aryl sulphonates. , alpha-olefinsulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamide-sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, monoesters salts of alkyl and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, D-galactoside-uronic acid salts, alkyl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl aryl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl amidoether-acid salts, carboxylic; and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group. These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
[0067] The salts of C 6 -C 24 alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside citrates, C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside tartrates and alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates. C6-C24. When the agent or the anionic surfactants are in the salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular aminoalcohols or alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt. By way of example of aminoalcohol salts, mention may be made in particular of the salts of mono-, di- and triethanolamine, the salts of mono-, di- or triisopropanolamine and the salts of 2-amino-2-methyl-1-one. propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) amino methane.
[0068] The alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used. The anionic surfactants that may be present may be mild anionic surfactants, that is to say without sulfate function.
[0069] As regards the mild anionic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of the following compounds and their salts, as well as their mixtures: the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids, the polyoxyalkylenated alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, the polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, alkyl D galactoside uronic acids, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, and alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic esters. In particular, it is possible to use polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids, such as, for example, lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4.5%) marketed, for example, under the name AKYPO RLM 45 CA from KAO. By way of example of surfactants different from the oxyethylenated nonionic surfactants described above, mention may be made of alkylpolyglycosides and mono- or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. The C 8 -C 40 alcohols, mono- or polyglycerolated, are preferably used. In particular, the mono- or poly-glycerolated C 8 -C 40 alcohols correspond to the following formula: ## STR2 ## in which R represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical, in C 40, preferably C 8 -C 30, and m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably from 1 to 10. By way of example of compounds that are suitable in the context of the invention, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 LAURYL ETHER), lauric alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol, oleic alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLEYL ETHER), oleic alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 OLEYL ETHER), cetearyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, and octadecanol with 6 moles of glycerol. The alcohol can be a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that in a commercial product several species of polyglycerolated fatty alcohols can coexist as a mixture.
[0070] Among the mono- or poly-glycerolated alcohols, it is more particularly preferred to use the alcohol C8 / 010 to one mole of glycerol, the alcohol C10 / 012 to 1 mole of glycerol and the alcohol in O12 to 1.5 mole of glycerol.
[0071] The content of additional surfactants in each composition is more particularly from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight relative to the weight of each composition. The compositions of the invention may also comprise one or more inorganic thickening agents chosen from organophilic clays, pyrogenic silicas, or mixtures thereof. The organophilic clay may be selected from montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite, and mixtures thereof. The clay is preferably a bentonite or a hectorite.
[0072] These clays can be modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amino acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulphates, alkyl aryl sulphonates, amine oxides, and mixtures thereof. As organophilic clays, mention may be made of quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38, Bentone 38V by Rheox, Tixogel VP by United catalyst, Claytone 34, Claytone 40, Claytone XL by Southern Clay Company; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 27 by Rheox, Tixogel LG by United Catalyst, Claytone AF, Claytone APA by Southern Clay; quaternium-18 / benzalkonium bentonite such as those sold under the names Claytone HT, Claytone PS by Southern Clay; quaternium-18 / benzalkonium bentonite such as those sold under the names Claytone HT, Claytone PS by Southern Clay, Quaternium-18 Hectorites such as those sold under the names Bentone Gel DOA, Bentone Gel ECO5, Bentone Gel EUG, Bentone IPP Gel, Bentone Gel ISD, Bentone Gel SS71, Bentone Gel VS8, Bentone Gel VS38 by Rhéox and Simagel M, Simagel SI 345 by Biophil. The fumed silicas can be obtained by high temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing a finely divided silica. This process makes it possible in particular to obtain hydrophilic silicas which have a large number of silanol groups on their surface. Such hydrophilic silicas are, for example, sold under the names "AEROSIL 130®", "AEROSIL 200®", "AEROSIL 255®", "AEROSIL 300®", "AEROSIL 380®" by the company Degussa, "CAB-O- SIL HS-5® "," CAB-O-SIL EH-5® "," CAB-O-SIL LM-130® "," CAB-O-SIL MS-55® "," CAB-O-SIL M -5® "by the company Cabot.
[0073] It is possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica by chemical reaction in order to reduce the number of silanol groups. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called "silica silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example sold under the references "AEROSIL R812®" by the company Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL TS-530®" by Cabot. - Dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example sold under the references "AEROSIL R972®", "AEROSIL R974®" by the company Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL TS-610®", "CAB-O-SIL TS-720®" by the company Pooch. The fumed silica preferably has a particle size that may be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.
[0074] When present, the mineral thickener is from 0.1 to 30% by weight based on the weight of each composition. The composition according to the invention and / or the oxidizing composition may also each comprise one or more organic thickeners.
[0075] These thickening agents may be chosen from fatty acid amides (diethanol or coconut monoethanol amide, oxyethylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acid monoethanolamide), polymeric thickeners such as cellulosic thickeners (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum and its derivatives (hydroxypropylguar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum), crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid and associative polymers (polymers comprising hydrophilic zones, and hydrophobic zones with a fatty chain (alkyl, alkenyl comprising at least 10 carbon atoms) capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules).
[0076] According to one particular embodiment, the organic thickener is chosen from cellulose thickeners (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum and its derivatives (hydroxypropylguar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum). ), the crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, and preferably from cellulosic thickeners with in particular hydroxyethylcellulose. The content of organic thickening agent (s), if present, usually ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, based on the weight of each composition, preferably from 0.1 to 100% by weight. 5% by weight.
[0077] The composition according to the invention may be in various forms, such as in the form of liquids, creams, gels, or in any other form suitable for dyeing keratinous fibers, and in particular human hair.
[0078] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a gel or a cream. The pH of the composition according to the invention is advantageously between 3 and 12, preferably between 5 and 11, preferably between 7 and 11 inclusive. It can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or basifying agents usually used for dyeing keratin fibers or else using conventional buffer systems. The alkaline and acidifying agents are for example those described above.
[0079] The invention also has a process for dyeing keratinous fibers comprising applying to said fibers: a composition (A) comprising: at least one fatty substance, at least one oxyethylenated (OE) nonionic surfactant comprising a number of units OE ranging from 1 to 9, at least one oxyethylenated (OE) nonionic surfactant comprising at least 10 OE units, the weight ratio of the amount of oxyethylenated nonionic surfactant (s) comprising at least 10 EO units the amount of oxyethylenated nonionic surfactants) comprising a number of EO units ranging from 1 to 9, being greater than or equal to 1 and at least one oxidation dye, the total amount of fatty substances in the composition being greater than or equal to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition and - a composition (B) comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
[0080] In a first variant, the keratin fibers, dry or wet, are applied sequentially, with or without intermediate rinsing and preferably without intermediate rinsing and in any order compositions (A) and (B). In a second variant is applied to said dry or wet fibers the mixture made at the time of use, the compositions (A) and (B).
[0081] The mixture weight ratio of the compositions (A) and (B) then varies from 0.1 to 10, preferably from 0.5 to 5. The total amount of fatty substances in the composition applied to keratinous fibers after mixing the compositions (A). ) and (B) is advantageously greater than or equal to 40% by weight of the weight of the agent, preferably greater than or equal to 45% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 50% by weight and better still greater than or equal to 55% by weight. % in weight. It may range from 40 to 70% by weight, more preferably from 45 to 65% by weight, and even more preferably from 50 to 60% by weight. The blend composition or compositions (A) and (B) are then left in place for a period of typically from one minute to one hour, preferably from 5 minutes to 30 minutes. The temperature during the process is typically from room temperature (15 to 25 ° C) to 80 ° C, preferably from room temperature to 60 ° C.
[0082] At the end of the treatment, the human keratin fibers are optionally rinsed with water, optionally washed with a shampoo followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or allowed to dry. The following example serves to illustrate the invention without being limiting in nature.
[0083] EXAMPLE 1 The following compositions are prepared (unless otherwise indicated, the quantities are expressed in g% of product as such): Composition (A) Monoethanolamine 6.19 Polycondensate tetramethyl hexamethylenediamine / dichloro 1.3-0.3 MA propylene (aqueous solution 60%; Hexadimethrin chloride) (Chimex PO Mexomere) Polydimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride (33% unstabilized aqueous solution, Polyquaternium-6) (Nalco Merquat 106) 0.4 MA Toluene-2,5-diamine 0.066 Hydrochloride of 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol 0.014 2-methyl-5-hydroxyethylaminophenol 0.02 N, N-Bis (2-Hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine sulphate 0.015 Resorcinol 0.038 m-aminophenol 0.023 Vaseline oil 80 Deceth-5 (EUMULGIN BL 589 from Cognis) 0.9 Oleth-10 (BRIJ 96V from Croda) 0.9 Oleth-20 (BRIJ 98V from Croda) 3.6 Sodium metabisulfite 0.22 EDTA 0.2 Ascorbic acid 0.12 water Qsp 10010 Composition ( B) Hydrogen peroxide (50% aqueous solution) 12 MA Tetraiodic tetrasodium 0.06 Pyrophosp tetrasodium hate 0.04 Vaseline oil 40 Sodium salicylate 0.035 Glycerine 0.5 Cetyl stearyl alcohol (C16 / C18 30/70 - NAFOL 1618F) 6 Oxyethylenated stearyl alcohol (20E) 5 Ammonia of rapeseed acids, oxyethylene (40E) 1,2 Vitamin E: DL-α-tocopherol 0.1 BHT 0.001 Phosphoric acid Qs pH 2.2 water Qs 100 The compositions obtained are stable Mode of application The compositions (A) and (B) are mixed at the time of application use in the following proportions: 10 g of the composition 1 and 20 g of the composition 2. The resulting mixture is then applied to locks of brown hair at a rate of 10 g of mixture per 1 g of hair. The mixture is left at room temperature for 50 minutes. The hair is then rinsed, washed with standard shampoo and dried. The lightening and coloring are of a very good level with good uniformity. Very light blond locks are obtained (visual evaluation).
权利要求:
Claims (4)
[0001]
REVENDICATIONS1. Composition for dyeing keratinous fibers, comprising: at least one fatty substance, at least one oxyethylenated nonionic surfactant (OE) comprising a number of EO units ranging from 1 to 9 and at least one oxyethylenated (OE) nonionic surfactant comprising at least one at least 10 units OE, the weight ratio of the amount of oxyethylenated nonionic surfactant (s) comprising at least 10 EO units relative to the amount of oxyethylenated nonionic surfactant (s) comprising a number of EO units ranging from 1 to 9, being greater than or equal to 1 and - at least one oxidation dye. the total amount of fat in the composition being greater than or equal to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
[0002]
2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the one or more fatty substances are chosen from C6-C16 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglycerides from vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, fatty alcohols, non-salified fatty acids, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides, non-silicone waxes other than solid fatty alcohols and solid synthetic esters silicones and mixtures thereof.
[0003]
3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the fat or fats are selected from liquid or pasty compounds at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure, preferably liquid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure.
[0004]
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty substance is chosen from liquid petroleum jelly or paraffin, polydecenes, liquid esters at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure of fatty acid and / or . 6. Fatty alcohol, liquid fatty alcohols at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure, or mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total amount of fat in the composition is greater than or equal to 75% by weight, preferably greater than 80% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. . Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it has a fat content, preferably of oils, ranging from 70 to 90% by weight, still more preferably from 75 to 85% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oxyethylenated nonionic surfactant or surfactants comprising at least 10 EO units and the oxyethylenated nonionic surfactant (s) comprising from 1 to 9 EO units are chosen from oxyethylenated fatty alcohols. C8-C30, preferably C12-C22, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably linear. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oxyethylenated nonionic surfactant (s) comprising from 1 to 9 EO units is or are chosen from the addition products of ethylene oxide and lauric alcohol such as lauric alcohol 2 OE (CTFA name laureth-2), adducts of ethylene oxide and decyl alcohol such as decyl alcohol 3 OE (CTFA name deceth-3), decyl alcohol 5 EO (CTFA name deceth-5), adducts of ethylene oxide and oleocetyl alcohol such as oleocetyl alcohol (CTFA name oleoceteth-5) and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of oxyethylenated nonionic surfactant (s) comprising from 1 to 9 EO units ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight and better still from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oxyethylenated nonionic surfactant or surfactants comprising at least 10 EO units is or are chosen from the addition products of ethylene oxide with lauryl alcohol, in particular those comprising from 10 to 50 oxyethylene groups and more particularly those comprising from 10 to 30 oxyethylene groups (Laureth-10 to Laureth-30 in CTFA names); adducts of ethylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, in particular those containing from 10 to 50 oxyethylene groups (Beheneth-9 to Beheneth-50 in CTFA names); adducts of ethylene oxide with cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), in particular those containing from 10 to 30 oxyethylene groups (ceteareth-10 to ceteareth-30 in CTFA names) ; adducts of ethylene oxide with cetyl alcohol, especially those containing from 10 to 30 oxyethylene groups (Ceteth-10 to Ceteth-30 in CTFA names); adducts of ethylene oxide with stearyl alcohol, especially those containing from 10 to 30 oxyethylene groups (Steareth-10 to Steareth-30 in CTFA names); adducts of ethylene oxide with isostearyl alcohol, especially those containing from 10 to 50 oxyethylene groups (lsosteareth-10 to lsosteareth-50 in CTFA names); adducts of ethylene oxide with cetyl alcohol, in particular those containing from 10 to 30 oxyethylene groups (Ceteth-10 to Ceteth-30 in CTFA names) and mixtures thereof. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of nonionic surfactant (s) oxyethylenated (s) comprising at least 10 EO groups ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight and better still from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of nonionic surfactant (s) oxyethylenated (s) is less than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. .13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises, as oxidation dyes, one or more oxidation bases chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis-phenylalkylenediamines, para-aminophenols and ortho-aminophenols. heterocyclic bases and their addition salts preferably associated with one or more couplers. 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one alkalinizing agent, preferably chosen from ammonia, alkali carbonates or bicarbonates, hydroxides of sodium or potassium and organic amines. whose pKb at 25 ° C is less than 12, and preferably less than 10, even more preferably less than 6. 15. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one alkalizing agent chosen among organic amines, in particular an alkanolamine, preferably monoethanolamine. 16. A method for dyeing keratinous fibers comprising applying to said fibers: - a composition (A) comprising: - at least one fatty substance, at least (i) an oxyethylenated (OE) nonionic surfactant comprising a number of EO from 1 to 9, at least (ii) an oxyethylenated (OE) nonionic surfactant comprising at least 10 OE units, the weight ratio of the amount of oxyethylenated nonionic surfactant (s) comprising at least 10 units EO on the amount of oxyethylenated nonionic surfactants comprising a number of EO units ranging from 1 to 9, being greater than or equal to 1 and at least one oxidation dye, the total amount of fatty substances in the composition being greater than or equal to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition and - a composition (B) comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide. Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the mixture produced at the time of use of the compositions (A) and (B) is applied to said fibers. 18. The method of claim 16 or 17, characterized in that the total amount of fat in the mixture of compositions (A) and (B) is greater than or equal to 40% by weight of the weight of the mixture, preferably greater or equal to 45% by weight, better still or equal to 50% by weight and more preferably greater than or equal to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture. 19. A two-compartment device comprising: in one, a composition (A) comprising: - at least one fatty substance, - at least (i) an oxyethylenated (OE) nonionic surfactant comprising a number of EO units ranging from 1 to 9, at least (ii) an oxyethylenated (OE) nonionic surfactant comprising at least 10 OE units, the weight ratio of the amount of oxyethylenated nonionic surfactant (s) comprising at least 10 EO units on the amount of oxyethylenated nonionic surfactant (s) comprising a number of EO units ranging from 1 to 9, being greater than or equal to 1 and at least one oxidation dye, the total amount of fatty substances; in the composition (A) being greater than or equal to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition and in the other, a composition (B) comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide .30
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同族专利:
公开号 | 公开日
FR3015274B1|2016-12-09|
WO2015091334A1|2015-06-25|
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法律状态:
2015-11-10| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |
2016-11-11| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
2017-11-13| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |
2019-11-15| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 7 |
2020-11-12| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 8 |
2021-11-15| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 9 |
优先权:
申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
FR1363003A|FR3015274B1|2013-12-19|2013-12-19|COLORING COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST 70% BODY AND A MIXTURE OF OXYETHYLENE SURFACTANTS|FR1363003A| FR3015274B1|2013-12-19|2013-12-19|COLORING COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST 70% BODY AND A MIXTURE OF OXYETHYLENE SURFACTANTS|
PCT/EP2014/077719| WO2015091334A1|2013-12-19|2014-12-15|Dyeing composition comprising at least 75% of fatty substances and a mixture of oxyethylenated surfactants|
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